How T0 Fix A Car Amp [That Isn’t Loud Enough]?
Subs are no longer hitting hard.
My subwoofer isn’t loud enough, and neither is the subwoofer in my car. What Makes a Subwoofer Scream? How to Increase the Subwoofer Volume in a Car Why aren’t my subs hitting hard enough and my bass isn’t loud enough?
If the volume and clarity of your automobile audio system have deteriorated over time, you may believe that your car amplifier is malfunctioning. A number of different settings and controls govern the volume of your car subwoofer. You’ll assume your car amplifier isn’t as loud as it should be, and your subs won’t strike as hard, if you alter these without researching what they do to your system.
How To Fix Car Amp – Complete Guide
To help your subs play louder, we’ll explain why they’re not hitting as hard as they used to.
1) Check the volume of the subwoofer. If you have an aftermarket car system, there will be a distinct choice in the audio settings. Increase or decrease the settings to modify the loudness of your sub from the front of the vehicle. By supplying a stronger RCA signal to the amplifier, you can raise the volume of your subwoofer.
2) Examine the gain of the amplifier. While fine-tuning your automobile amplifier, you may have accidentally turned this down. This will also lower the subwoofer’s volume. Playing a bassy song and gradually increasing the level until you detect any distortion is the best way to adjust this. You don’t want to turn it all the way up because the subwoofer will most likely play distorted music.
3) Look at the LPF. This is a low pass filter that prevents any vocals or treble from reaching the amp and being played through the subwoofer. Make sure your car audio is turned on and adjusted to around 80 Hertz to get more bass. The volume of your car subwoofer will be reduced if the value is lower.
10 Easy ways – How TO Fix A Car Amp
The Amp Won’t Power On
When you turn the power on, nothing is more aggravating than the experience of buying a new amplifier, taking the time to set it up, and then discovering that it does not turn on when the power is turned on. There are a few potential explanations for why you are experiencing this issue, in the event that you are.
If the amp in question is a car amp, a faulty remote turn-on cable is the most likely reason. You won’t get any power to your amplifier if there’s an issue with this wire or if it’s connected incorrectly. Other factors are:
- A faulty or damaged power line
- A ground wire that has been disconnected
- An amp that is improperly wired or powered
Any of these factors could result in your amplifier failing to turn on when it should.
If your in-home amplifier isn’t working, the issues could be similar to those described above. It won’t operate, for example, if you’ve connected it incorrectly or have loose or broken cables. Also, don’t forget to check for all of the usual, easy-to-miss “duh” faults.
- Is it connected to a wall outlet?
- Is the amp’s other end of the power line securely plugged in?
- Is the wall socket operational?
- Have you switched it on?
These may appear to be silly suggestions, but you’d be amazed how many individuals spent hours troubleshooting only to discover that the cord has become unplugged. (Do you remember the movie National Lampoon’s Christmas Vacation?) You should also make sure that you have enough power to run the amplifier. Even if everything is connected and plugged in correctly, the amp will not turn on if the voltage or power supply is too low.
How To Fix It
To resolve a power outage, you must first determine why you are without electricity. If you’re lucky, it’ll be anything as easy as a faulty wall socket or a tangled power connection. Switching outlets or putting the cable in more securely will solve the problem in those circumstances. In more extreme circumstances, you may need to rewire your amplifier and double-check your setup.
A defective wire may also need to be replaced. This video goes through how to install a remote turn-on wire in great detail: I strongly advise you to look into it if you need to install or replace yours.
Sound Is Distorted
When your amp is broken or damaged, whether it’s a car amp or a standalone stereo amp, distortion can occur. However, an issue known as clipping is the most prevalent cause of amplifier distortion in both types of amplifiers.
Clipping occurs when there is a voltage mismatch between the power supply and the amp. Simply said, you’re pushing your amplifier too hard, forcing it to utilise more power than it’s capable of. Furthermore, distortion can occur if you play your music too loudly. All amplifiers have limits, and if you repeatedly push your amp to its limits, you’ll get distortion and maybe a few other undesirable side effects.
How To Fix It
If the distortion is the result of broken equipment, your best bet is to hand the problem off to an experienced technician. If, on the other hand, the problem is caused by clipping, the simplest solution is to lower the volume. If you do so, you should be able to correct the clipping as well as the auditory distortion at the same time.
There’s Humming in the Speakers
The sound of humming is not the same as distortion. It’s that unpleasant buzzing sound, almost like an insect, that continues even when no audio is being played. It is a problem that typically occurs with older versions of amplifiers and occurs more frequently in home amplifiers than it does in automobile amplifiers. You are in luck since there are a few different things you may test out that could perhaps resolve the issue.
How To Fix It
First, connect the amplifier and audio source to the same surge-protected wall outlet. Sometimes plugging them into the same outlet fixes the issue. If not, evaluate the audio source and amplifier to see which is humming. If your TV is connected to your amp, consider connecting a stereo. Humming? Probably the amp if so. If it stops, blame the TV. Check that your wires and cords are firmly plugged in. Loose parts can generate humming. If none of these work, you may need a pro.
Amp Comes On, but No Sound Comes Out
If your amp is working, but you aren’t getting any sound, there could be a few different reasons for this. Let’s look at the most common ones.
If you’re having trouble with a car amplifier, this video can help you figure out what’s wrong: If you’re searching for a brief summary, here are the four most common causes of no sound:
- The signal on your ground cable isn’t strong enough.
- Your power supply isn’t providing adequate voltage (the car battery).
- Your power cable is either broken or unplugged.
- Your RCA cables are either broken or unplugged.
Although it isn’t mentioned in the movie, a lack of sound could be due to something other than your amplifier. If you test your amplifier and it functions normally, the issue is most likely with your speakers rather than the amplifier.
If your in-house amplifier is turned on but not producing any sound, the issue is most likely with the audio source. It could, for example, be a faulty cable connecting your device to the amplifier (phone, television, game console, etc.). It could also imply you didn’t link the Bluetooth properly if you have a Bluetooth-connected amp, such as the Nobsound 100W Mini Bluetooth Amplifier (available on Amazon.com), which is small and can be used on the road or outdoors.
How To Fix It
In many circumstances, the solution is straightforward. Check your Bluetooth connectivity and connections again. If there’s an issue, simply reconnect. If your car amplifier is malfunctioning, the solution will be determined by the source of the problem. It could also be a connection issue. If the amp isn’t getting enough power, has a faulty cord, or your speakers aren’t working, it may take a bit more time and effort to fix.
If you’re not sure how to fix a specific problem with your amplifier, it’s best to call someone who can help you. If you attempt to repair it yourself and don’t know what you’re doing, you risk permanently damaging your equipment.
The Surround Sound Feature Sounds Wonky
You may have improperly placed speakers if your amplifier supports surround sound but your audio is coming from the wrong direction. Furthermore, you may have connected the wire from one speaker to the wrong speaker and vice versa. However, not all surround sound issues are caused by sound coming from the wrong direction.
If the audio quality is poor, for example, it could indicate that your audio source is incompatible with the amplifier. Furthermore, the audio source may require a certain cable connection that you are not using.
How To Fix It
Fortunately, all of these issues are usually simple to resolve. It can just be a matter of repositioning your speakers on separate sides of the room. You only need to trace the wires back to their sources if you’ve connected the wrong wire to the wrong speaker or output. Check that they’re on the correct ones. If not, replace them with the proper speakers and outputs. Check your audio source if sound quality is an issue.
Check that it works with the amplifier you’re using. Also, take a look at the section on surround sound and soundbars in your manual. Check to see if a certain cable is required. Some TVs, for example, should only be connected to external audio sources via an HDMI cable. You may have assumed that because your amplifier and television both have coaxial cable connections, you could connect them that way. However, if the manufacturer specifies in the documentation that all surround sound connections must be made over HDMI, any other cable will result in poor sound quality.
Amp Goes Into Protect Mode
Protect mode is a feature that many current model vehicle amplifiers have, albeit not all of them have it. Protect mode is essentially a built-in safety function. If your amplifier starts to have problems, it will shut down automatically to protect the hardware. Unfortunately, once they’ve entered protect mode, some amplifiers won’t turn back on until the problem is resolved. Others can be manually turned on whenever you choose, but if the problem hasn’t been resolved, they may return to protect mode. Here are some of the most common reasons your amplifier’s protect mode feature was engaged by itself:
- There was an internal error.
- The amplifier was fitted incorrectly.
- Wires have broken or come loose.
- The amplifier became hot.
To bring your amp out of protect mode, first figure out what caused it to shut down in the first place.
How To Fix It
To begin, double-check that all wires and cables are firmly connected and not broken or loose. If your amp went into protect mode immediately after you turned it on for the first time, check the instructions to be sure you’ve connected everything correctly.
Clean any dirt or dust from the amplifier and tighten any loose connections. You can also check to see if any fuses have blown. If the problem is caused by overheating, you must determine why before using the amplifier again. It’s possible that you’ll need to remount the amp, providing adequate room around it for proper ventilation.
Also, make sure it’s not directly in the sun and is in a cool spot. Finally, if you can’t figure out what’s causing protect mode to activate, seek professional help. If you ignore the problem and continually restarting the amp, your system will finally die.
Not Enough Bass (or Treble)
This is frequently caused by incorrect equalisation settings. It could, however, be the result of inadequate speaker placement or excessively loud music. There’s always the possibility that the problem is caused by a loose or faulty wire or connection, as with most other concerns on the list.
How To Fix It
I’m just guessing here, but I’d assume that adjusting your equaliser settings will boost your bass (or treble) 99 percent of the time. Examine the amp’s and your audio source device’s settings. Adjust them both till you get the desired sound. It’s the most simple and easy option. If the equaliser settings aren’t the problem, consider relocating your amplifier, speakers, or subwoofers.
Rearranging our equipment when it isn’t where it should be for best audio performance can help. Also, lower the volume of your music! Nothing sounds good when played at full volume. Check your connections to determine if anything is loose or damaged if none of these things help. If this is the case, tighten, fix, or replace it.
Volume Keeps Getting Too Loud
This is a problem that we’ve probably all encountered at some point. We’re driving about in our cars, listening to our favourite song, or lounging in our dens, watching a wonderful action movie, when the volume suddenly shifts from ideal to outrageously, eardrum-rupturing loud. That usually has nothing to do with your amplifier. It’s usually the fault of the original sound engineers, or it’s because you have an Automatic Volume Control feature on your automobile, television, or other device.
How To Fix It
Automatic Volume Control (AVC) is a cutting-edge technology that adjusts the volume of numerous devices to suit the situation. Some examples are:
- In a car, accelerating or decelerating
- Winds that are rising or dropping
- Ambient noise levels rise or fall.
- Crowds of people arriving and exiting
Many, but not all, devices allow you to switch AVC on or off, thus if this annoyance occurs frequently, you might want to try turning it off and seeing if that helps.
Speakers Sputter Occasionally
Although sputtering speakers can be caused by loose or defective cables or an internal amplifier issue, it is most commonly triggered by a loud volume. If you hear sputtering, keep track of when it occurs. Does it happen when the music is at its loudest? When the bass is really rumbly, does it splutter more? Most of the time, you’ll notice a pattern, and that pattern will suggest that your volume is too high.
How To Fix It
I love blasting music while driving or dancing around the house. It’s amazing; you’re surrounded by sound. Too much loud music can damage your speakers. Turn lower the volume if it sputters. If you don’t, the stuttering will destroy your speakers. If it happens more with heavy bass, adjust your equaliser to reduce it. If treble causes it, ditto.
Amp Keeps Blowing Fuses
That takes us to our final issue: amps that keep blowing fuses. There are three possible causes if this keeps happening to you:
- The fuses you’re using are incorrect.
- Your ground cable is malfunctioning.
- Something is overheating your amplifier.
So, what can you do to avoid it?
How To Fix It
First and foremost, double-check your fuses. Make certain they’re the right size. If not, they’ll continue to blow. The type of fuses you require should be specified in your manual; be certain you obtain those fuses. Otherwise, you’ll continue to have difficulties. Replace or tighten your connections if a defective ground wire is at blame. Also, make sure your power wire is in good shape.
If the power wire is too small, “it could cause an abundance of resistance, which creates heat, which makes the amp work harder,” according to popular car troubleshooting website ItStillRuns. This excess heat might cause fuses to blow. Fuse blowing can also be caused by other factors that cause the amp to overheat, such as inadequate positioning, restricted ventilation, or bass settings that are too high. As a result, you must first determine why the amplifier is overheating. Then you can take action to correct the problem.
If the Amp Doesn’t Power On at All
The amp requires power from both the remote and power cables, as well as a strong ground, to turn on.
Your amp will not turn on if the remote turn-on wire is not powered. The remote cable mimics your finger flicking a switch, with your finger representing battery power and the switch representing a mechanism inside the amplifier.
The remote turn-on wire normally originates from the radio, so if the radio isn’t turned on, the amplifier won’t turn on. If the remote terminal on the amplifier is not powered, the next step is to check for power at the equivalent wire that links to the radio.
If the remote turn-on is linked to the power antenna wire on the head unit instead of the remote turn-on, the amp may only turn on sometimes. The amp will normally switch on only when the head unit audio input is tuned to AM or FM radio in this case.
If the remote wire appears to be in good working order, move on examine the power wire. This wire is thicker than the remote wire and should be powered by the battery. If it doesn’t, look for inline fuses and make sure the wire isn’t loose, corroded, or shorted in any way.
If the remote and power wires are both fine, the ground wire should be checked for continuity. The amp may not turn on or perform properly if the ground connection is faulty or not connected at all.
If the amp has good power and ground, and the remote wire has voltage when the head unit is turned on, you’re probably dealing with a busted amplifier.
If the Protect Mode Light Turns On
To prevent further damage to internal components, some amplifiers enter amplifier protect mode. If the “protect” light on your amplifier is on, you most likely have a bad speaker, subwoofer, cable, or other component. As previously stated, check for electricity. Then examine each component separately.
Remove the speaker wires first. If the light goes out, the issue is most likely with one of the speakers. Visually inspect each speaker and subwoofer in your system to find the source of the problem.
The issue could be caused by a blown speaker. You can also use an ohmmeter to make sure none of the speakers are grounded out, which can happen if speaker wires get loose and touch the ground, or if the speaker connections come into contact with bare metal.
Check the RCA patch wires if you can’t identify any problems with your speakers. Connect a set of excellent RCA wires to the head unit and amplifier to confirm this. Replace the RCA cables if the light goes out as a result.
If the Amp Sounds Like It’s Clipping
Clipping in a home audio system is often caused by either an amplifier that is underpowered or speakers that are inefficient. In automobiles, difficulties of this nature might be caused by frayed or charred wiring.
If clipping is occurring, the most likely culprit is an amplifier with insufficient power; in this instance, you will need to either update the amplifier or downgrade the speakers. Contrast the power rating of the speaker with that of the amplifier.
If the amplifier provides sufficient power for the task at hand, the issue most likely lies in either the speaker wires, the speakers themselves, or the ground of the amplifier.
If No Sound Is Coming From Your Speakers
Check that the amp receives an input from the head unit if it turns on. If you have access to both the head unit and the amplifier, this is a simple procedure. Simply unplug each unit’s RCA cables and replace them with a good set.
Cycle through the inputs after making sure the head unit is turned on and the volume is turned up (such as the tuner, CD player, or auxiliary). Replace the installed RCA cables with a decent set if everything works after bypassing them. If one input produces sound but not another, the issue is with the head unit, not the amplifier.
If the amplifier still doesn’t produce any sound, detach it from your vehicle’s speakers and attach it to a known decent speaker that isn’t in your vehicle. If the amp is capable of driving that, the issue is most likely with the speakers or wiring. If there is still no sound, the amplifier may be defective. Before you condemn the unit, make sure it’s not in “subordinate” mode and that there are no conflicting filters.
If You Hear Hissing or Other Distortion
Examine the speaker wires and patch cables. If the cables connecting the head unit and amplifier cross any power or ground lines at any point, interference might occur, resulting in distortion.
The speaker wires are the same way. The solution is straightforward: reroute the wires away from any power or ground lines, and if necessary, cross them at a 90-degree angle. It may also be beneficial to use higher-quality cables or wires with adequate shielding.
Unplug the speakers from the amp if you can’t detect any problems with the way the patch cables or speaker wires are routed. If the noises persist, look for a faulty ground.
If the Subwoofer Sounds Like It’s Farting
Strange sounds can arise from a subwoofer that is overpowered, underpowered, or put wrongly, so figuring out what’s wrong can be time-consuming.
To begin, fix any issues with the speaker casing. The sub will not sound right if the enclosure is not the right match for it. Because the vibrating speaker cone drives air into and out of the box beyond the seal, a poorly positioned speaker can allow air to escape while you’re listening to music. Stopping the fart-like sounds by correctly seating the speaker.
If the enclosure is in good shape, double-check that the woofer is impedance-matched. If you only have one sub connected to one amp, impedance matching is simple; it either matches or doesn’t. If you have many subs connected to a single amp, you’ll need to figure out if they’re connected in series or parallel.
Check the power ratings of both the sub and the amp if the impedances match, and make any necessary adjustments if the amp is under-powered or over-powered. Get a bigger subwoofer or don’t overpower it if you’re simply overpowering it (for example, turn down the gain at the head unit, turn down the bass boost, and adjust all the settings until the woofer stops farting).
FAQ – How To Fix Car Amp
How do I diagnose a blown amp fuse?
Replace the fuse with everything switched off to diagnose a blown automobile amp fuse. If the fuse blows, there’s almost certainly a short between it and the remainder of the system. Replace the fuse once more with the amplifier turned off. If the fuse continues to blow, there is a short in the wiring. If the fuse explodes when the amplifier turns on, the amplifier most likely has an internal fault.
Why does my stereo amp turn on and off by itself?
It’s possible that your car’s amplifier is having problems with its wiring or that it’s overheating if it turns on and off by itself. It’s also possible that the car amp is in Protect Mode.
How do I fix a broken RCA jack on an amp?
To repair a faulty amplifier jack, first take apart the amplifier and then remount the connector onto the PCB board with the use of a soldering iron.